Western States Horse Expo 2008 and Exciting new Products

Another Great Weekend, 10th anniversary of the Western States Horse Expo, Sacramento, Ca, June 6-8, 2008.

Well, the 2008 Western States Horse Expo is over and I came back with some great information on some unique and valuable Horse Care Products.

Two products that captivated my attention were based on Old Knowledge combined with new Technology.

The first has to do with Horse Nutrition and the proper care and feeding of the confined horse.

The following re-print will give you a clear understanding why this Innovative Product form Stable Grazer fits a real Niche in the tools need for the responsible, overall low cost maintenance of our Equine Friends.

Reprinted by permission from the University of Kentucky - College of Agriculture ASC-143 Equine Feeding

Management: The How & When of Feeding Horses

Laurie Lawrence,

Department of Animal Sciences

Providing horses with good nutrition is essential for normal growth, reproduction and performance. Horses should receive feeds that are adequate but not excessive in required nutrients.

However, just providing the right feeds is often not enough to ensure that horses are receiving optimal nutrition. HOW and WHEN a horse is fed may be just as important as what a horse is fed.

The HOW of horse feeding includes the type of feeding system used (group or individual).

The WHEN of horse feeding includes the number and timing of meals that a horse receives. Good feeding management should encourage adequate consumption of feed and limit wastage.

In addition, good feeding management should promote the safety and well being of horses.Number & Timing of MealsIn the natural state, horses are grazing animals that may spend up to 60% of their time eating. Grazing and resting periods are interspersed so that grazing periods are rarely separated by more than two or three hours of non-eating behaviors. When domestic horses are kept in a true pasture situation, most will adopt the grazing pattern described for horses in the natural state.

However, many horses have limited access to pasture and will receive their nutrient needs from hay and concentrates in a more regimented environment. In pasture situations, horses may spend 12-14 hours a day grazing. By comparison, stalled horses may consume a typical hay and concentrate ration in two to four hours.

When the diets fed to stalled horses are high in roughage, more time will be spent eating than when the diet is high in concentrates. Because horses in stalls often spend less time eating than horses in pastures, they may be more inclined to occupy their time with undesirable activities such as stall vices, or wood chewing. Wood chewing appears to occur more at night in stabled horses and is increased when low roughage rations are fed. Horses have evolved to consume small amounts of feed several times a day, rather than large amounts of feed once or twice a day.

Anatomically, their digestive tract is designed to accommodate small meals, in that the stomach is relatively small. Despite the fact that the horse is more physiologically adapted to many small meals each day, it is not uncommon for feed to be provided only two (or occasionally three) times a day for many horses that are housed in stalls. This feeding practice may be labor efficient, but it may not be the most desirable situation for the horse, particularly if large amounts of concentrate are being fed.

The following situations may result when horses are fed two times per day: When a large amount of concentrate is fed before the roughage component of the diet, the horse may consume the grain readily and then have a reduced appetite for the hay. The horse may "pick at the hay or waste the hay by mixing it in the bedding.

In either case, the horse will not be consuming the nutrients that are contained in the hay. A high and rapid concentrate intake may increase the possibility of digestive disturbances. "Concentrates are feeds such as cereal grains (oats, corn, barley, etc.) and commercially mixed feeds that are concentrated forms of energy. Concentrates are high in starch. It has been estimated that the maximum amount of starch that should be fed in one meal to a mature horse is 3.5 to 4 lb (1000 lb horse). When higher levels are fed, starch may bypass the small intestine and enter the large intestine where it will be fermented by the microbes in the cecum and large intestine. Excessive concentrate intake has been suggested as a causative factor in the occurrence of colic in horses.

A large concentrate meal has also been associated with large shifts in plasma volume and changes in other cardiovascular parameters. Individual FeedingA distinct advantage to individual feeding systems is that every horse can receive a ration that has been specifically designed to meet its needs. There is maximum flexibility in the amount and types of feeds that can be given to each horse.

It is also easy to monitor each horse?s appetite and feeding behavior when they are individually fed. Generally, individual feeding also reduces the opportunity for injury due to competition for feed within a group. On the negative side, it is more time- and labor-consuming to feed horses individually than to feed them as a group. Further, individual feeding systems usually require some type of facility where horses can be separated, usually a barn with stalls. The horses may be housed in the stall more or less continuously, or just brought into the stall at feeding time. It is not uncommon for horses that are fed in stalls to develop undesirable behaviors at feeding time.

• For example, horses may kick at partitions, walk the stall or strike at the door in anticipation of feeding. Some of the disadvantages associated with individual feeding can be minimized with good barn and stall design.


• For example, the time and labor associated with feeding can be reduced if all feeders are placed at the front of the stalls in a location that can be reached without entering the stall.


• For example, small doors that swing out into the aisle way can be placed above the grain tub. Swing-out hay feeders are also available. Some people believe that feeding hay from the floor is the most natural situation for horses and that hay racks or hay nets increase the exposure of the horses to dust from the hay.

In addition, some horses will remove the hay from hayracks and eat it off the floor. However, hayracks/nets will often decrease wastage of the hay. The stall design and feeder location may also affect the behavior of horses at feeding. Placing feeders on either side of stall partitions is a labor-efficient design, but it may increase undesirable behavior at feeding, such as kicking. Stall partitions should be high enough to prevent aggressive horses from reaching into adjoining stalls. Some horses do not adapt easily to separation and/or isolation from other horses.

Stalls that allow for visual contact across a stable aisle may improve the response to individual feeding. For horses with poor appetites, visual contact with other horses may stimulate eating activity.

Because of the above research, Dan Ferhinger and his brother Ed, have perfected an Automatic Feeder, which allows your confined horse to fed properly. up to six times a day. The Stable Grazer is constructed of Horse safe High density Plastic and functuional working components.

The timer is powered by 4 C cell batteries which ave ben field tested to operate for 8 months plus without replacment. This timed feeding sysytem will save on Feed waste and possible Veterinarian bills for thar dreraded "Colic Call"

For more information fill in your name, e-mail and phone number and Dan or Ed will get right back to you to discuss this Labor and Health Saving stable necessity

Stable Grazer

or call me direct

530-798-0245

Watch the Video Below

Is Training a Horse like Raising Children?

Good thoughts about the reward system for getting your
horse to be where You want them to be during the training Process.
We appreciate Equisearch for another fine Article.

Read carefully and take to heart

Rewards that Make Sense to Your Horse
Hilda Gurney shares insight on rewards and communicating clearly with your horse.

By Hilda Gurney

I wish I'd known how important the reward is. Unlike punishment, the reward
explains to the horse what to do and ensures that he stays content and
cooperative throughout the levels. Rewards come in all forms--
a pat on the neck or using the voice to say, "Good boy."
A reward can be riding straight and forward after a lateral exercise
or letting the horse stretch. The ceasing of an aid, such as a yielding rein
or a neutral leg, can also be a reward. For example, if the horse is alert
and going forward, he will be rewarded when the rider lightens her leg
at the very moment he starts to go nicely. Then the horse will learn that
when he feels the pressure of the leg and goes forward, he gets the
reward immediately.

Punishment does not tell a horse what to do. It extinguishes a certain
misconduct or behavior. For example, it tells the horse that he can't buck, rear or bite.
But it does not explain how to use his body to go more balanced.
For example, you see a lot of riders punishing their horses for hanging on the left rein.
But they don't tell the horse in a constructive way what to do, such as showing
him that he should soften to the contact or accept the right rein, something
the horse will only understand through a reward.

Another way I can reward my horse when first teaching a movement is to
only do a step or two and not maintain it. If I want to teach my horse to move
sideways from my right leg, for example, and he responds to my leg by moving
his haunches left and moving a step to the left, I reward him right away by ceasing my leg aid, petting him and riding straight and forward. Then you do the same thing again.
Step-by-step rewarding will ensure that you create a solid understanding of the
aids on which you can build. If you insist that your horse continue to do more
steps at a time or try to maintain the movement, he will get confused.
It will not be clear to him what you want.

Once you get a solid, immediate response to your aid, you can delay the reward
and ask for a few more steps. After those additional good steps, in which you
have lessened the pressure of the leg, you may reward him by going straight.
If you insist without making sure the horse really understands what you want,
he will become cranky and unresponsive. Sometimes you can see this at shows:
The horse has spur marks in his sides, the rider is pushing and pushing,
and the horse is swishing his tail and is tense in his back and unwilling to go forward.
The horse and rider are not speaking the same language.

Blind repetition acts like punishment and makes a horse dull. It does not make the horse understand the exercise better. Also, muscles get tired. If the horse does
something well, I may do it once again but then I go on to something else.

The principle of rewarding after a good response is just as important
when you ride at the highest level, where the demands on the horse reach
the limits of his physical ability. If the horse is trained by punishment,
drill or repetition,
he'll soon learn to hate his job, and you'll have a horse that's not going to work for you. The overall picture won't be harmonious. On the other hand, if you consistently reward,
the horse will stay positive. Look at [Olympic bronze medalist] Debbie McDonald
and Brentina. The fact that the horse is doing the most difficult and strenuous
exercises so willingly means that there's a lot of good rewarding work done.

An FEI "I" judge, Hilda Gurney is a pioneer of American dressage. With her Thoroughbred, Keen, she led the United States to the team bronze medal in dressage at the 1976 Olympic Games--the first U.S. dressage medal since 1948. She has competed twice in the Olympics and has won three gold and two silver medals at the Pan American Games. She trains and breeds horses at Keenridge Farm, Calif.

Thoughts on Transitioning Your Horse to Spring Pasture

When introducing a new type of hay or grain it should replace the old feed at a rate of 25% every other day, taking a total of six days until the horse is completely on the new feed.

Feed intake or eagerness to consume the diet may decrease during this changeover period. If this occurs, more time might be needed for the horse to adjust to the new feed.

"When a horse is to be turned out on pasture all day, especially if the pasture is lush and green, time on pasture should be gradually increased to avoid overeating, in a manner similar to increasing the grain," Jones said.

Horses should be provided with all the hay they want to eat about a week prior to the start of complete pasture turnout.

The time on pasture should be increased by an hour each day for four to five days. Then, before the horse is going to be turned out completely on pasture, provide a hay meal.

"It's important to remember that each horse is different," Jones noted. Some horses take more time to adjust to dietary changes than others. So monitor the horse's eating habits and health status closely during this time.

For more information on horses, contact your county extension agent or visit www.uaex.edu and select Agriculture, then Horses.

Your Horse's Weight Control is as Important as Your own

Just as your personal Weight management is important to your overall health, your Horse's weight management becomes your responsibility since we have assume Care Control and custody of a "wild animal"

We appreciate the well written article below by Tane Moores

Also here is a Book you may enjoy for yourself, a Common Sense Approach to Weight Management.

Click here for you FREE COPY



Your horse's health is your responsibility. No if's, no but's, it is completely and entirely down to you to ensure that your horse is well. There are many factors that you have to be aware of when you care for any animal. Generally speaking, animal behavior and development should always conform to a certain course and your horse is no different.

As a horse owner you have to be confident that you are checking for the right things and taking action to rectify problems that may go wrong before they become an issue. You must make sure that you are doing whatever is necessary to ensure that your horse is growing healthily, and being brought on in a way that gives him everything he needs to develop into the best horse he can be. You have to pay close attention to your horse as he develops There are many things that can go wrong and he can't tell you. You need to know him well enough to spot them. If you haven't owned a horse before, you should get some suitable books and read up on them, then spend some time at your local stables talking to the people who care for the horses, rather than just going for a ride, talk to other horse owners and to your vet. Find out what you need to look for, make yourself familiar with the common problems. If you don't know what to watch for, you might not be able to recognize the symptoms.



Your horse's weight is always a good indicator of how healthy he is. There are many different breeds of horse, and they differ in size within the breed, but when you own a horse, you should find out from your vet some idea of the ideal weight, If you suspect your horse may have a problem, check his weight. Even if you don't have any concerns it does no harm to weigh him regularly and make a note of any fluctuations. You will spot dramatic changes quite easily but a steady decline might only show up with a regular 'weigh in'. If your horse loses a lot of weight in a week or so, it is a fair indicator that something is wrong, and you must contact your Vet immediately.

With most animals, and horses are no exception, sicknesses can develop in no time, and they can become too ill to save almost before you have noticed that anything is amiss. Even a small weight change over a short period can indicate a problem before it is full blown, especially if his eating habits change. If your horse is being weighed on a regular basis, you will be able to tell if there's a problem relatively quickly. If you can weigh your horse on a regular basis, you are going to have a very much better chance of spotting anything that goes wrong which, in an extreme case, could save your horse's life. Most good stables have a scale, if you stable your horse at home speak to the owners of the local stables and arrange to use theirs. Failing that you can always use a public scale, it's not ideal but it's better than nothing.

This is a very simple precaution but it will contribute to the well being of your horse with little effort on your part, and you should have many happy years of riding out together.

Tane Moores has been riding since a very early age and has long been involved in all things Equestrian. The experience and knowledge gained over many years of involvement in the world of horses is freely shared with anyone who cares to read. Tane writes regularly on Horse Facts and Equestrian Sports at The Easy Equestrian

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tane_Moores

Is Barefoot Better?
A growing contingent of hoof-care experts says yes. Here's what the natural-foot movement could mean for your horse. From Equus Magazine February 11, 2008

By Jennifer Forsberg Meyer

The barefoot option. You've heard of it, but you know it's not for your horse, because (pick one or more):

* it's a fad.
* he has bad feet.
* you ride on rugged ground.
* you show.

You agree that going barefoot is healthy for a hoof, and that pulling a horse's shoes at least once a year to reestablish natural hoof growth is a good thing. But eventually those shoes must go back on, right? Permanent barefootedness is appropriate only for certain horses who already have tough, resilient hooves.

Right?

Four months ago, I'd have agreed with you on all of the above. But now I'm not so sure. By researching this article, I've learned amazing things about how a horse's hoof is designed to function. As a result, I'm beginning to understand why a growing number of natural hoof-care experts say barefoot is not just for horses with already-excellent hooves.

In fact, judging by the evidence, the opposite may be true. Going barefoot (as the result of a correct trim and combined with compatible living conditions) may be the way to make bad hooves better, and even excellent. It may also create hooves capable of supporting a horse--with rider--over most types of terrain. And (this is the most intriguing part) it may enhance a horse's overall health, comfort, and longevity.

What I learned, in fact, prompted me to consider the barefoot lifestyle for my own horses, who live and are sometimes ridden on hard, rocky ground.

In this article, I'll explain what I found so compelling. I'll tell how the barefoot movement began, share the thinking of some of its most prominent advocates, and detail what's necessary to make the barefoot option work. I'll also discuss an alternative approach that applies natural-foot principles to a nontraditional shoe.

In short, I'll give you the tools you need to decide if new-age foot care is something you want to pursue for your own horse.
Before: Hoof of an off-the-track Thoroughbred before his first natural-foot trim. "This is the 'hopelessly flatfooted' horse people think we've 'bred the foot off of,'" says hoof rehab specialist Pete Ramey. "The apex of the frog is the lowest part of the foot, and the horse was lame even in shoes."

All photos by Darrell Dodds

As Nature Intended
The foundation for a natural approach to hoof care was laid 20 years ago primarily by the work of two farriers. Jaime Jackson and Gene Ovnicek independently conducted field research among feral mustangs in the mid-1980s. Each hoped to see what the hooves and habits of horses in the wild might tell us about foot care for the domestic horse.

Both were astonished at the hardiness and resilience of the feet they saw. Without metal shoes to restrict elasticity and contact with the ground, the mustangs' feet remained tough and healthy even traveling at speed over the roughest ground. Lameness was rare, and usually accident-related rather than caused by disease of the hoof itself.

The mustangs' feet were heavily callused across the toe. Ovnicek's research showed that, contrary to popular belief, the hoof wall is not the primary weight-bearing surface. Rather, the load is shared among the sole, bars, frog, and wall.
After: The same foot four months later after "barefoot" trimming and work in a padded boot to stimulate growth. "Now the apex of the frog is buried within a concave, callused sole, and the horse is sound," says Ramey.

"Intuitively, it always seemed to make sense that the hoof wall is the weight-bearer,"says Ovnicek today."And that belief kept us stuck in old modes of shoeing."

In the 20 years since the first feral-horse research, interest in natural methods of increasing the hoof health of domestic horses has blossomed around the world. Jackson has gone on to write several books related to the topic. He also helped create the American Association of Natural Hoof Care Practitioners, which promotes research and trains/certifies professionals.

Ovnicek, who still supports the ideal of "barefoot where possible,"has gone on to develop an innovative shoe that takes the natural functioning of the equine foot into account. He also lectures and provides clinics around the world on what he calls the "natural balance" of the equine foot.

Veterinarians, research centers, and universities are increasingly taking notice of the natural hoof 's powers to prevent and in many cases cure diseases like laminitis and navicular. Moreover, word of mouth among horse owners is building demand for more information on natural hoof care and access to practitioners.

Just before I began work on this article, I heard an enthusiastic endorsement of the barefoot trim from my neighbor, who's pleased with the results she's getting with her laminitic gelding. That caused me to wonder: Just how does it all work?

The Underlying Science
Robert Bowker, VMD, PhD is a leading researcher in the natural function of the equine foot. A neurobiologist who teaches anatomy at Michigan State University, he became interested in foot function about 10 or 12 years ago, when students asked him about the correct placement of nerve blocks. The anatomy texts he check were incorrect, so he began examining the equine foor himself.

His research extended from the nerves of the foot to the blood vessels, cartilage, and bones, and more recently to the hooves and their laminae in health and disease.He supplemented his lab work with observations of free-roaming feral horses.

What he found added momentum to the barefoot movement. He discovered that the blood in horses' feet does much more than provide nutrients to hoof tissues. it also enables the unshod foot to function as a hydraulic system, in much the same way that gel-filled athletic shoes do.

"Moving liquids are the best way to dissipate energy," Bowker said in 1999,when his research was first publicized."That's why some of the major running shoe manufacturers market products that contain liquids in their soles."

Bowker also discovered, however, that the blood isn't forced out of the foot upon impact, with the digital cushion-the thick pad of elastic fiber at the heel-absorbing most of the concussion, as was previously thought. Rather, as the hoof expands upon landing, it creates a vacuum that sucks blood from beneath the coffin bone into the rear portion of the hoof.

"As the blood moves through microvessels in the hoof cartilage, it dissipates the energy caused by the impact on the ground," he explained at the time. "We need to be trimming hooves so that more of the back part of the foot--including the frog--bears the initial ground impact forces and weight."

The problem, of course, is that traditional metal shoes not only limit the expansion and the contraction of the hoof, they also raise the frog and heel off the ground. Bowker says today that the difference between wearing shoes and going barefoot is like the difference between working in high heels and wearing sneakers.

The problem, of course, is that traditional metal shoes not only limit the expansion and contraction of the hoof, they also raise the frog and heel off the ground. Bowker says today that the difference between wearing shoes and going barefoot is like the difference between working in high heels and wearing sneakers.
Before: Hoof of a Quarter Horse whose rotated coffin bone had
penetrated the soles of both feet in 2004.
"The farrier and vet both told the owner this horse was unsalvageable,"
says Ramey, who began caring for the gelding's feet.

After: The same horse today, after regular "barefoot" trimming.
"This horse carried his owner to a speed-event championship buckle
in local competition in 2005," says Ramey

"Horseshoes provide a much smaller surface area to absorb shock," explains the researcher, whose own wife's horse is now happily barefoot. "So if a bare hoof landing after a jump experiences, say, 1,000 pounds of loading per square foot, then with a traditional shoe, there's going to be 2,000 pounds per square foot."

The consequences of this are significant. With their natural function compromised, key hoof structures become weak through lack of use, thus more vulnerable to navicular syndrome and other lamenesses. And, with the shock-absorbing ability of the foot limited, the concussion travels up the horse's leg, stressing bones and joints.

It's this latter phenomenon of how the wearing of shoes affects the rest of the horse's body that initially grabbed the attention of yet another barefoot advocate, farrier Pete Ramey.

Now an instructor and clinician for the AANHCP and one of the world's most experienced natural hoof-care practitioners, Ramey first learned about the potential advantages of barefootedness in 1998. Intrigued, he pulled the shoes from his own string of about 20 rental horses and was "blown away" by what he saw.

"These were geriatric geldings, many over 30, averaging 20 miles a day over rocks," he recalls. "Once their feet made the transition, they functioned beautifully over that terrain. But what really got me was how the geldings' endurance increased, and their creaks and groans diminished. I began to have fewer of them on the injured reserve list."
After: The same horse today, after regular "barefoot" trimming. "This horse carried his owner to a speed-event championship buckle in local competition in 2005," says Ramey.

Ramey points to the findings of Bowker's research to explain what was happening.

"Because the bare foot is such an effective blood pump, the horse's heart doesn't have to work as hard. Endurance riders have known this for a while--it's why many of them use boots instead of shoes: Their horses recover faster."

Then, too, there's that superior cushioning of the bare foot, which spares a horse's joints, ligaments, and other tissues.

"It's like the difference between a steel wheel and a rubber tire," he notes. "People assume it's normal for horses to have joint or back problems as they age, but it may be many of these aches are caused by the increased stresses of wearing shoes."

Ramey strongly disagrees with those who say shoes are necessary because we've "bred the foot off " the modern horse.

"It's just not true. Unless there's a bone pathology, virtually any horse can grow a healthy foot, given time and proper trimming."

Although the exact specifications of that trim are still evolving, most natural-foot practitioners agree that the result should enable the sole, the bars, the frog, and the walls to share the load. Only exfoliating material should be trimmed from the sole and frog, allowing thick calluses to develop over these structures. The outer hoof wall is best beveled to minimize flaring and separation. Sometimes called a "mustang roll," this beveling mimics the wear pattern on feral horses' feet. (Note: The experts I spoke with for this article agreed that the Strasser trim, developed by German veterinarian Hiltrud Strasser, is invasive and should be avoided.)

To ease the transition from shod to barefoot, Ramey and other practitioners recommend hoof boots, often helping their clients select and fit them. Because of the increasing demand for boots from owners of barefoot horses, a wealth of styles and models is now appearing on the market.

"Boots provide protection while a horse's hoof is remodeling and becoming tougher," says Ramey. "They're the 21st century shoe, protecting a foot as well as the 'old school' metal shoe, only supporting hoof health rather than degrading it. Over time, as the feet develop their natural resilience, the boots are no longer necessary for most riding."

Natural Foot, Natural Horse
Most natural hoof care practitioners agree that a barefoot trim works best on a horse living a more natural lifestyle, including as much turnout as feasible. Ideally, the horse should live on the same type of ground he'll be ridden on. For example, if you ordinarily ride a lot on rough trails, your barefoot horse is best turned out on terrain that includes rocks and hard footing.

"It's something the AANHCP and the barefoot movement in general are working towards now," says Mark Jeldness, a field instructor for the association."We want to help owners find ways to create the right kind of environment for their horses, and to encourage their horses to move around on it as much as possible."

For owners who can't provide enough turnout, keeping the horse well exercised under saddle during the transition period is critical. Boots make this possible, as well as frequent trims (every four to six weeks) that encourage the foot to remodel properly.


In that this approach to foot care fits within the natural-isbetter movement at large, it's not surprising that natural horsemanship clinicians are embracing the no-shoes option more readily than are mainstream trainers. John Lyons hasn't shod his horses in 10 years, but he believes owners must use common sense when considering what to do with their own horses.

"You don't need shoes just because you ride a horse, and leaving shoes off is ideal for forming a healthier, stronger foot," he maintains. "I put gravel in my pastures where the horses walk to help toughen their feet. But you have to use common sense, too. If I were roping all the time in a sand arena, I'd probably use shoes."

Clinton Anderson quit using traditional shoeing a year and a half ago, and now puts hind shoes only on his reiners. "You do need the shoes in back to be able to slide," he says. "But other than that, with the right trimming, there's no reason to shoe. The feet don't change overnight--I've found it takes anywhere from six months to a year for them to fully make the transition--but when they do, they get hard and strong and tough enough for most any kind of riding."

Of course, not everyone agrees this is so, and there are any number of traditional farriers and longtime horsemen who'll tell you the "barefoot thing" is misguided, plain and simple. But one undeniable strength of the natural hoof care movement is its emphasis on maximizing the health potential of every foot.

"The key difference between traditional farrier care and the barefoot approach is that we're zoomed in on figuring out how to make all horses grow good feet," says Ramey. "A vet I work with told me recently he used to look at a horse with bad hooves and say, 'Wow--that horse has awful feet.' Now he says, 'Wow--that horse could have good feet if we do this and this and this.' It's a significant difference."

For my part, I'm impressed enough with the underlying science and the case histories to give barefoot a try. My horses received a natural trim from an AANHCP-certified practitioner last December, and are spending several months turned out in an area with varied terrain. When my daughter and I resume riding, we'll use boots if necessary until their feet are sufficiently remodeled.

At the end of the transition period, the worst-case scenario is that our horses will have much healthier hooves on which to nail shoes. And if they wind up happy without their shoes, even better.

This article first appeared in the February 2006 version of Horse & Rider magazine. For more information on going shoeless check out an interview with Pete Ramey in the December 2007 issue.