Basic Qualities of the Perfect Fly Sheet

Thanks to advances in fabric and design, a fly sheet is a more effective option than ever for helping your horse stay comfortable during bug season.
By Sandra Cooke


When you're really serious about keeping flies OFF of your horse, fly sheets can protect him with new types of fabric and innovations that improve fit to help sheets stay put. A sheet may not safeguard every square inch of your horse--though some come close--but it can banish insects from large tracts of skin, enabling you to use fly repellent more selectively on what remains exposed.

As awareness of the danger of West Nile virus increases, a sheet is one line of defense against disease-carrying mosquitoes. And if you have summertime concerns that days in the sun will fade your horse's show-ready coat (or even sunburn his sensitive white areas), a fly sheet has the added bonus of shielding him from harmful ultraviolet rays.

Here are the basic qualities your horse's fly sheet needs:

Wearability
For chafe-free comfort during hours of use, the newest fly sheets are constructed using fabric woven or knitted with soft artificial fibers such as nylon and polyester (as opposed to other fabrics made of vinyl-coated threads that give older fly sheets a stiff "plastic lawn furniture" feel). Improved use of darts, pleats and gussets provides extra room for movement in the shoulder and chest areas. Special slippery nylon lining in the shoulder area and (in the case of neck covers) along the top line helps prevent rubbing of hair. Contour darts in the rump encourage sheets to stay put in action or return to position after your horse rolls.

Recent advances in fabrics and design have caused some fly-sheet makers to recommend that their sheets can be worn around the clock, with regular checks to make sure everything is in place--a potential boon for pasture-kept horses (and their owners).

Breathability
Small spaces between fibers in the weave or knit of the new fly sheet fabrics will not admit insects but are designed to allow air to circulate freely. A breathable sheet doesn't cause your horse to sweat, even in hot weather. (Because fly sheets are typically light-colored, he will also be cooler as some of the sun's heat is reflected.)

Note that fly sheets are not waterproof or water-resistant, so rain will go right through them (and some manufacturers recommend hosing them off for a quick cleaning). On the other hand, a fly sheet dries immediately and continues to protect your horse after a summer shower, while most topical insect repellents will be diluted or washed away.

Durability
Some fly sheet fabrics combine very fine monofilament--thin fishing line--with others fibers, adding extra toughness. Punctures or small tears are often self-limiting as the fabric doesn't continue to unravel beyond the area of damage. Use of quick-release plastic buckles rather than steel can actually reduce damage to the sheet if a buckle snags, because the plastic buckle will often break before the sheet begins to tear. Design that minimizes "easy to grab" areas makes your horse's sheet less vulnerable to playful (and destructive) pasture-mates.

Washability
A fly sheet often takes dirt that would otherwise be on your horse as he interacts with the outdoors, so it's designed to be washed according to manufacturer's instructions. As mentioned, hosing is good for quick cleanups. Repeated laundering may even enhance the softness of some fly-sheet fabrics.

Maximum Coverage
Because flies are interested in areas of your horse's body outside the boundaries of many regular sheet or blanket designs, fly sheets--sized like other horse clothing such as blankets or stable sheets--often cover extra territory:

Extended necks--contiguous with the sheet itself and reaching up almost to the poll and throatlatch

Hoods or neck rugs-- separate from the sheet and attached at the withers and shoulders

Belly bands--a wide section of fly-sheet fabric that extends across his vulnerable underside

Extended necks and detachable hoods are often secured at the front of your horse's neck using Velcro fasteners. Adjusting the neck covering to fit him closely helps to prevent the fabric from sliding down his neck. This part of the sheet can also be reinforced with inserts that help maintain its shape.

To keep flies and gnats away from your horse's eyes and ears, some manufacturers offer fly masks made of the same fabric used for fly sheets. There are also turnout leg wraps designed to protect against the biting flies that, if not discouraged, can torment your horse into stomping his shoes right off.

This article originally appeared in the June 2005 issue of Practical Horseman magazine.

For more on sprucing up your horse, check out the summer 2007 issue of Everything For Horse & Rider. To order, call 301-977-3900 ext. 0 or order online.

As always we Thank Horse & Rider for their outstanding Publication

In California, call Dale Bentien for your Local Kensington Dealer
Dale's Cell is 530-305-1234.

Tell him Chuck and Shirley Sent you.
Happy Horsing

Horse Sitter Checklist
If you plan to leave your horse in the hands of a sitter, you'll need to equip him or her to handle any situation that might come up, so you can enjoy your trip worry-free. Use our countdown checklist to make sure you remember every detail.

By Karen Hayes, DVM




With a little preparation, you can leave your horse in good hands, and take off on vacation with piece of mind.
Photo by Alana Harrison
FOUR WEEKS IN ADVANCE
Schedule routine maintenance. Take care of all routine vet and farrier visits to catch any potential problems-in-the-making-and so your sitter won't have to bother with them. This will leave him or her free to concentrate on day-to-day care-and crisis management, if necessary.

Tip: Schedule a time when you'll be available to discuss any concerns you may have regarding your horse's health. That will make it easier to catch any problems before you leave town.

Tell your vet you'll be away. While your vet is there, give him or her the dates you'll be leaving your horse in a sitter's care. Ask him or her to ensure that your horse will get any needed veterinary care in your absence. Assure your vet (in writing, if necessary) that payment will be made as soon as you get back. Make a refundable down payment, if requested.


Tips: Give your vet (in writing) specific instructions to be used in the event of a crisis, and ask that this information be included prominently in your horse's medical records. For example, if you're adamantly against colic surgery, make it clear you'll agree to any medical treatment for your horse if he colics, but if surgery is required, you authorize your vet to euthanize your horse. Ask your vet to include any major-medical or mortality insurance information-including contact numbers-in your horse's medical records, in case your provider needs to be contacted.

THREE WEEKS IN ADVANCE
Arrange for emergency transport. Make sure your trailer and towing vehicle are in tiptop shape. Fill the gas tank; put air in the tires; tighten the lug nuts; secure the hitch; clean the floor mats, etc. If your sitter will need to borrow someone else's rig, make sure it's available and in good repair. Leave cash-in $20 bills or smaller-to cover trip expenses.

TWO WEEKS IN ADVANCE
Stock up on feed. Have plenty of everything your horse needs on hand-hay, grain, supplements, daily dewormer, etc.-so your sitter won't have to buy more. Arrange it all in one place, clearly labeled.

Tips: Use stay-on, waterproof labels. Apply labels on cans-not lids, which may get switched. Remove any feed your horse doesn't need to avoid confusion. Provide an uncluttered work surface for your sitter to prepare feed and supplements.

ONE WEEK IN ADVANCE
Leave written instructions. Detail feeding and nonfeeding chores, organized in the order in which your sitter will do them.

Tips: Leave one large instruction sheet, rather than several small ones-a big piece of smooth cardboard works great. Use a thick-tipped marking pen so your writing is easy to read, and won't smudge or run if it gets wet. Post the sheet on the wall in the food-prep area. Match the feed substance name to the one on the label so there's no confusion. Be clear and concise so your sitter doesn't have to wade through extraneous words to get to the bottom line.

Leave medication instructions. Store medications and supplies (such as gauze pads, needles, syringes, etc.) in one location, such as in a metal lunchbox in the fridge. Write down location of medications/supplies, plus detailed instructions on how and when to use them, on the main instruction sheet described above.

Tips: Show your sitter how to treat your horse, and have him or her do it at least once while you're there, so you know it's being done safely and properly.

Leave contact information. On a separate sheet of paper, list all important contact information: where you can be reached (plus an alternate number, just in case); the name and number of your veterinarian (plus his or her after-hours number, and another vet's number, just in case); your farrier; your equine insurance company (if applicable); and a neighbor (preferably one who knows your horses).

Tips: If you'll be hard to reach, tell your sitter to leave daily messages on your answering machine or service. That way, you can call and check for messages when it's convenient. If your horse has mortality and/or major-medical insurance, make four copies of the provider's contact information. Give one copy to your sitter; take one with you; post one in the barn; and leave one inside your house. That way, you or your sitter will definitely be able to contact your provider in case of a crisis.

Dr. Hayes is an Idaho-based equine practitioner who stalls eight horses.

This article first appeared in the May 2000 issue of Horse & Rider magazine. For more on finding a horse sitter, see "Horse Sitter Wanted" in the May 2007 issue of Horse & Rider.