Modular Barns

Thursday, December 11, 2008

How To Buy your First Your Horse or Even Why?




Horse ownership is the ultimate dream for many riders and horse enthusiasts. Some wait years for that dream to come true and when it finally does, it really is fantastic and rewarding but at the same time, a demanding experience.

If you are lucky enough to find yourself in the position of looking to buy your very own first horse then you need to make sure that you are fully prepared for the responsibility that goes with it. It is no use trying to kid yourself that the first horse you see is going to perfect for you.

As I found out the hard way two years ago rushing into horse ownership will more than likely end with a hefty price tag in both your time and your money! The wrong decision I made when buying my first horse, Auricula cost me a great deal of stress, heartache, time and thousands of "extra" ££'s, all because I took bad advice and did not take my time or do my homework properly.

The fact is, you're more likely to get the wrong horse than the right one, so what can you do to make sure the horse you buy is really the perfect companion for you? There are a few things you can do, but first it is more important to understand the things you should not do.

Tip #1: Make sure that you are 110% certain that horse ownership is for you. You need to ask yourself whether or not you are ready to buy your first horse and you need to be honest. This means that you have exhausted the other options available to you such as horse sharing and loaning a horse. These two options are more like a stepping stone of experience and getting a taste of what it really is like to own a horse of your own. The advantage of horse sharing and horse loaning is that you can share the costs and take on the responsibility of horse care but if you find that you don't have the time or you would prefer to just continue riding lessons, it is relatively easy to terminate the commitment. The disadvantage is that the horse will always belong to someone else, but this is why you should look at it as a stepping-stone of experience.

Tip #2: Understand that owning a horse is costly. The initial purchase price of a horse is the easy part. You need to take into careful consideration, the ongoing costs such as livery fees, veterinary fees, feed costs, stable supplies, worming, insurance, farrier fees etc. These costs pop-up throughout the year and most are continuous, for example weekly/monthly livery fees, and you need to budget for everything.

Tip # 3: Understanding that horse ownership requires a lot of your time. You need to remember that your new friend is going to be depending on you! That means you are going to have to make "enough" time available every day to visit, muck out, groom, check for any injuries, feed, ride and exercise him mornings and evenings. This is going to be slightly easier if you are keeping him at home. You can have a yard take on partial or full responsibility for caring for him but be aware that this can become quite costly.

Tip #4: Never buy the first horse you see. It is understandably difficult to walk away from the first horse that you go view because he seems to be so perfect, but it is imperative that you view many horses as you can in order to get an idea of market prices, gain more confidence in dealing with sellers and have a range of potential horses from which to choose a better-suited companion for you. This way you will be able to walk away from or question sellers overpricing their horse.

Tip #5: Always, always shop with an experienced equine buddy. More preferably a buddy who not only has equine experience but someone who has also helped others find their ideal first horse. A second opinion is always helpful.

You need to become like a sponge and gain as much valuable horse buying advice as possible to help you but make sure that the advice is right! Remember, your aim is to not find "The Perfect Horse" but to find the horse that is "Right for you!" It is both exciting and challenging, but armed with the right information you will have a better chance at succeeding.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Sonia Panesar's step-by-step guide helps new horse buyers save money and time. For Instant Access To Your FREE "Top 13 Horse Buying Mistakes" Report Visit http://www.buyingyourfirsthorse.com/Freereport.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sonia_Panesar

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Hobby or Business? Defining your Equine Venture

Ever wonder....?

According to the Internal Revenue Service, if your main objective is to make a profit, then you are considered a legitimate business.

Many people involved within the horse industry often do not view their small horse operation as a business. They are surprised to learn that you do not have to own a large facility or have several years of experience to be considered an equine business. According to the Internal Revenue Service (IRS), if your main objective is to make a profit, then you are considered a legitimate business.

To read more
follow through here:
Article from The Horse.Com
The Horse.Com, Hobby or Business

And Don't forget to listen to the Tax-Teleseminar






Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Mushrooms, Horses and the Woobles, Equine Leukoencephalomalacia



Interesting incident down the road regarding Mushrooms and Horses....



A neighbor called a bit panicked a few days ago.

One of her Young Kiger Geldings was having difficulty walking and
was acting very poorly. In a few hours two other Kiger gelding were experiencing the same Symptoms.

Shauna called the Vet and it was determined after a few Blood Sample and analysis that the behavior could have been caused by the Horses eating Mushroom from a part of the pasture where Manure had piled and mushrooms were growing. It was not absolutely conclusive but the symptoms did mimic early Equine Leukoencephalomalacia

Manure and Pasture Management are often forgotten about by even the most conscientious Horse Care Giver. It is suggested to keep Horse Pasture clipped short, either through intense feeding (creation of Smaller paddocks) and aeration and harrowing and spreading of manure clumps.

Excellent points are made in this monograph by Tri-County City Soil and Water
Management
We constantly Mow our pastures, if there are not enough horses to keep grass clipped and monthly, use a Spike harrow to break up clumps and aerate the sod. These practices keep the incidence of Mushroom Growth.

It takes about 2 acres of well managed Pasture to support one horse. We have found that by creating smaller Paddocks (1/2 to one acre with Electric Fence) and moving the herd through the paddocks, we keep the pasture short and Manure is easier to manage.

Good management may reduce the incidence as experienced by our neighbors.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

A Teleseminar Worth YOUR time



Get some Facts regarding the IRS and Equestrian Activities


Richard B Dicks
CPA and Horse Business person




This call was LIVE on Wednesday, July 9 It's now in replay. Sign Up Below to listen to the replay!

My favorite topic is Small business and the optimization of Net Income. Many horse owners have erroneous ideas and have listened to Hear-say regarding the Income Tax consequences and advantages offered to the equestrian business person.

Richard B. Dicks, our "CPA Guy" is back, and he's answering your equine business questions:

  • "How can I form the business plan that will most help me to make money with horses?"

  • "What about legal liability for trail rides, or just having horses as a disabled woman?"

  • "What are some pros and cons of forming an LLC?"

  • "What are the top three mistakes horse businesses make with their bookkeeping that most affect their profits?"

  • "What are the top three mistakes you see horse businesses making - and how can they be prevented?"

  • "What are the top three issues you see affecting the equine industry?"

If you run any kind of horse business, or plan on it, you need to be on this call! Ask your question in the "My Burning Questions" area here, and we'll get to them in order.

Click Here to get to the Submit page
Worth every minute of
Your Time
and Energy

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Some More on Horse Nutrition, the Fall is approaching




Another well presented article about Horse Nutrition and with the cost of feed today, we all want to know we are getting the Best value for our money. Also it is important to consider How You Feed Your Horse.



Take a moment an watch the video below about a product I found at the western States Horse Expo, June 2008. Stable Grazer offer a proper regimen of feed dispersal and SAVES on wasted feed product

Due to the number of questions and concerns I field from horse owners unable to maintain weight on the horses I've written the following to explain feeding guidelines found on feed bags. Also, how to determine what amount your particular horse needs.

Typical Guidelines call for:

Recommended feeding amount is ½ to 1 pound of feed per 100 pound bodyweight.

Feeding amounts may be adjusted slightly to meet the needs of the horse.

Feeding amounts should be split into 2 or more feedings per day.

I.e. a 900 pound horse would need to be fed 4 ½ to 9 pounds per day.

Now comes the tricky part

I know you've all probably heard the terms "easy keeper" and "hard keeper". What that boils down to is the metabolism and energy level of that particular horse. You also have to factor in the size of your horse. A taller horse will weigh more than a shorter or smaller horse. If you have a low energy low metabolism horse you'd go toward the low end. If you have high energy high metabolism horse you'd go toward the high end. The average person is not good at guessing the weight of their horse nor the proper weight their horse should be.

The best judge of your horse is you. If your horse is getting to heavy or losing weight look at the nutritional needs of your horse and see if they are within the guidelines. Use a body scoring chart to see if your horse is within optimum weight range.

I've had people with a small, average and large horse ask me why one is doing well, one is doing okay and one is losing weight. When I ask what they are feeding they answer "one scoop". Here lies the problem.

Different feed weighs different amounts. Also, some people fill the scoop to different levels. You should scoop out your feed and weigh it. Find out exactly what you have been feeding. Then compare that to the guidelines.

In the example above an 800 pound horse, a 1000 pound horse and a 1200 pound horse were being fed 6 pounds of feed daily. It was the appropriate amount for the smaller horse but way to low for the others. The 1200 pound horse guidelines call for 6 to 12 pounds per day. I recommend splitting the difference and seeing how the horse does then increase or decrease according to body condition. If your horse is underweight go to the high end. Just remember, do it gradually and increase their feed no more than 1 pound per meal.

Quick Reference Table Chart

Horses weight _____________Feed bag rec________________Amount to feed horse

800................................................ 4-8 pounds daily ..........................................6 pounds per day

1000............................................ 5-10 pounds daily.......................................7-8 pounds per day

1200.............................................6-12 pounds daily......................................... 9 pounds per day

This is based on an average horse. If your horse is high energy you go to the high side, low energy to the low side average you fall in the middle. Start out with the mid range and adjust accordingly.

Feeding Need To Knows

* An average horse can not utilize more than 5 pounds of feed at one meal. Anything more they are basically just pooping out without being able to utilize the nutrients. This is why feeding horses must be broken down into 2 or more feedings per day.
* In order to achieve the nutrient value on a bag of feed the horse has to consume the pounds required for their size and metabolism or their nutrients are falling short.
* Do not increase a horses feed ration more than 1 pound per meal over a course of a week..
* Do not change a horses feed without mixing it with the new feed for at least 7 to 10 days. Feed changes must be made gradually.
* Do not feed less hay than feed. If a horse is getting 6 pounds of feed they need a minimum of 6 pounds of hay.
* Typically, the average horse should consume 1 bag of feed and 2 bales of hay a week.

Conclusion

The best judge of your horse is you. Feed your horse according to their needs. Stop being of the "scoop" mind and get "pound" wise. Listen to your horse, they can tell you a lot. Don't be afraid to ask questions from someone. If your horse doesn't appear to be doing well to you they probably are not. Get in the habit of observing horses body condition. Rate horses based on a body condition scoring guide. Rate your horse and other horses. Get to know your horse and your horses individual needs.

Horses do not fit into a nice tidy package. They are as different as us in their nutritional needs. Obviously a 5 foot tall person is not going to have to eat as much as a 6 foot tall person to maintain their optimum weight. So goes it with horses. Also, we've all met that person with the high metabolism that seems to be able to eat anything they want and they stay skinny or the person that watches everything they eat and still gains weight. Again, so goes it with horses.

Melody Baum

Peace At Last Farm & Feed

Website http://peaceatlastfarmandfeed.bravehost.com

Myspace http://www.myspace.com/peaceatlastfarmandfeed

My animals health are important to me. That is why I strive to have the highest quality feeds and supplements available for them and my customers. As an extension of that quality service and dependability are of utmost importance to me.

For more information, fun facts, forums, videos and more visit the above websites.

Copyright © Melody Baum, All Rights Reserved

We thank Melody for her fantastic report.
Please visit her site




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Friday, August 22, 2008

Horse Nutrition, some interesting thoughts and Ideas





The Following is a great article regarding Horse Nutrition


Indications are conclusive that nutrition and behavior are closely tied.
May seen obvious but many ignore the circumstances.


At Australian Natural Health and Healing, we believe in natural feeding. This means that if possible, provide your horse with feed as natural as they can be, that is less processed and as close as possible to what a horse would eat naturally.

Of course grass is the most natural feed available. However, our lands are not as prosperous as they used to be and the variety of grass on a small acreage property would be limited. The soil is also likely to be poor in nutrients, meaning that the grass will not be very nutritious, hence the need to provide extra feed.

The closest feed to grass is hay and chaff. It is important to provide plenty of those. There are different types of hay like lucerne, barley, grassy etc.

The important thing here is that you must provide a balanced diet between roughage (hay, chaff, pasture, bran) and concentrate (grains, meals, fats etc). Although chaff is chopped hay, hay as such is a primary ingredient of the diet because it provides longer stems which help in the horse's digestion. When horses do not have access to valuable pasture, or are fed grains, they should be provided with hay or chaff with a minimum of 1% of their body weight to enable efficient digestion (Dr John Kohnke).

Feed should be weighted and not measured in volume because it is the only way you will be able to calculate your horse's intake. If you are using a 2 litre ice-cream container to measure your feed, take 1 measure of each feed, weigh it and record it. On average, a 2 litre container will be about 300g of lucerne chaff, 250g of white chaff etc.

Feed must be free of mould and "unwanted visitors" alive or dead! So it is important to store your feed correctly to avoid any spoilage and contamination. Mould and horses do not agree!!

Whatever ration you establish, you must monitor its effects on your horse and adjust accordingly. For example, if your horse seems to actively seek food after he has been fed, this means he is still hungry and you might need to increase the quantity. If, on the other hand, he has leftovers, then you will need to reduce the quantity. It takes around 3 weeks to see the effect of a particular feed, so if your horse is loosing weight without any apparent reason (you know he is not sick or worm infested), then you will need to re-assess his ration. The same applies if your horse starts behaving strangely.



So lets see how food can affect a horse's behaviour.

A natural diet for a wild horse contains large amount of cellulose fibre from plants that are digested in the large intestine. This natural diet contains very little amount of starch and sugars found in grains and protein in legume plants like lucerne. Starch, sugars and protein overload in the small intestine are a cause of digestive upsets and will "heat up" a horse or cause colics as the feed ferments in this region.

Some horses are so intolerant to starch they cannot eat oaten chaff (yes, there is a little bit of oats in quality oaten chaff). A common feed stuff that is very high in starch is wheat bran with between 30 to 50% starch. If you must feed grains, it is important that you provide plenty of roughage to help with digestion and the amount of grains be minimal.

Synthetic or poor quality vitamins and minerals may also create some unusual reactions, depending how sensitive your horse is. Horses are like people, some react to red cordial, others to lactose, some to red meat etc. Unfortunately there is no black and white answer. It is a matter of trialling something and observe how your pony reacts.

The good news is that once the culprit ingredient is identified and removed from the diet, your horse should return to its normal-self within days.

A good idea is to introduce new feed one by one (if possible) and see how it goes after few days.


Of course there are other factors that might affect your horse's behaviour and they should be eliminated from the equation before blaming its feed. Horses by nature are not mean animals. They do have a hierarchy in their herd and there is always few fights among them. The alpha horse will ensure to maintain its status and will "boss" other around if needs be. This is normal. There are few books written on the subject that might help understand their behaviour within a herd.

An aggressive horse, on the other hand, is not normal. We should ask ourselves questions such as:

* When does this behaviour happen? (feed time? During riding? Etc)
* Has he always been aggressive?
* If he became aggressive suddenly, what happened? We might need to investigate a little
* Was he abused, starved or neglected in the past? Horses have a phenomenal memory and it might take a lot of re-education to change behaviour caused by bad memories!
* Is he in any sort of pain? Like us, some horses are more sensitive to pain than others so a little thing might seem the end of the world for the sensitive ones! This is where we (or a vet) need to check his feet, back, neck, muscular tightness etc. If a horse is unbalanced, even slightly, it may cause some pain in his body and could be the cause for misbehaving. it is true that some horses will endure horrible pain without blinking an eye until they simply fall apart (or down)! This is then a shock to the owner who did not know their horse was hurting. One should take the time to really know their horse and be attuned to them to depict any abnormality. It takes time and patience.
* Does his tack fit properly? Wrong saddles can cause some musculoskeletal issues and make our pony very unhappy!
* If it's a mare, is she in season? Some mares can get extreme during these times!
* Is he badly educated? Have we got a spoiled brat?
* Does he have an ulcer? This is difficult to determine and you will need your vet to run some check-ups. According to scientists, it is very common in horses, especially those who raced or competed as they get highly stressed and their diets might not be the best in terms of digestion. Some symptoms might be sensitivity to some feed stuff, especially starch and proteins, behavioural issues and weight loss. These symptoms alone are not sufficient to provide an accurate diagnostic, so if you suspect your horse has an ulcer, contact your veterinarian who will be able to confirm it and prescribe medication.

* Now, a very simple question which gets overlooked quite often: does he get too much food for his activity level? Food is energy, so if our horse does not use his energy in his activity, he will have some left to spare!!
* Does the horse buck when ridden (regularly)? Bucking takes a lot of effort for horses so there has to be a good reason. Assuming that it is not a horse in breaking, causes for bucking may be a painful saddle, sore back/body/feet, bad memories as explained above, too playful (too much food)?

I guess the first thing to eliminate is any physical health issues whether they are illnesses or injuries. Your veterinarian is the person to contact first and they will be able to refer you to other professionals if needs be, like farriers, chiropractors etc.

Elimination of any ill-fitted tack is the second one. If there is an issue with the saddle then you might need to get a saddle fitter in. It is not expensive and is worth the spending. Better have a good saddle than having a horse that bucks, is sore, unhappy and dangerous.

Any mental issues due to the horse's past are better dealt with the help of professional trainers. Same applies to a badly educated horse. These professionals can help us in re-educating our horse and teach us what to do or not do.

If your horse gets supplements like minerals and vitamins, do a bit of research to see how other horses react to what you are giving yours. It is not uncommon to see a change in behaviour according to supplements given to a horse. Sometimes, it is wise to stop all supplements to see if the horse goes back to a gentler state. It is possible that these supplements might be too concentrate, or of an average quality, or that the horse has some allergic reaction to them, especially if they are synthetic. And sometimes, it might be necessary to only give natural supplements like herbs, dolomite etc.

Minerals and vitamins (supplements) should be given based on what the horse's nutrients requirements. A good start if to check the NRC web site and John Kohnke's book "Feeding Horses in Australia" to understand nutrients and calculate what your horse needs.

For more information on caring for your horse the natural way, visit our web site Australian Natural Health and Healing at http://www.australiannaturalhealing.com

Cass holds a certificate in Aromatherapy and one in Aromatherapy for pets. She is currently studying Flower Essences and Homeopathy for animals.

Cass has also certification in Reiki (level 2), Angel Intuitive, Remedial Techniques, and Higher-self communication.

In a more mundane life, she holds a degree in Information Technology and various other certifications in this field.

Cass came in contact with horses at the age of 6 and was able to acquire her first pony at 12. Since then, a passion was formed and an uncanny bond with horses.

Natural remedies have always been part of her life and she has applied them to her family, pets and friends.

To find more information on natural remedies, therapies, products and care for horses and dogs, visit her web site http://www.australiannaturalhealing.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cass_Martinez


Martinez, Cass "Horse Feed and Horse Behaviour." Horse Feed and Horse Behaviour. 17 Aug. 2008. EzineArticles.com. 22 Aug 2008 .

* APA Style Citation:
Martinez, C. (2008, August 17). Horse Feed and Horse Behaviour. Retrieved August 22, 2008, from http://ezinearticles.com/?id=1416435

* Chicago Style Citation:
Martinez, Cass "Horse Feed and Horse Behaviour." Horse Feed and Horse Behaviour EzineArticles.com. http://ezinearticles.com/?id=1416435


© 2008 EzineArticles.com - All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Sweets make young horses harder to train in Montana State study

BOZEMAN, Mont. -- Young horses may be easier to train if they temporarily lay off the sweets, says a Montana State University study where two-year-olds wore pedometers, wrist watches and Ace bandages.

A commercial mixture of corn, oats, barley and molasses -- sometimes called "sweet grain" or "sweet feed" -- gives horses the glossy coat and lively spirit that makes them attractive to prospective buyers, said Jan Bowman, an animal nutritionist at MSU.

But the extra energy provided by sweet grain during the early stages of training made the horses in MSU's study more disobedient and fearful than horses that only ate hay, Bowman said. The grain-eaters spent more time resisting the saddle. They startled easier. They bucked and ran more during training.

Early training, which usually lasts about 30 days, gives young horses the foundation they need for more advanced training, Bowman said. They learn to move sideways on command, for example. They learn how to move their front or hind feet in any direction.

"Results suggest that trainers under time constraints could increase their training effectiveness during the early stages of training by not feeding excess dietary energy," Wade Black wrote in a paper that will be submitted later this year to the "Journal of Animal Science."

Black -- a horse trainer, instructor for the MSU Colt Starting class and one of Bowman's graduate students -- came up with the idea for the study when he was an undergraduate in her equine nutrition class, Bowman said. She and Black then conducted experiments during the summer of 2007. Black presented their findings to the American Society of Animal Science in June this year. He is still analyzing some of the data to see how the grain affected the horses' adrenaline during training.

The study involved 12 closely-related quarter horses that came from one Idaho ranch, Bowman said. Black trained the horses for three weeks, five days a week at MSU's Miller Livestock Pavilion. Half the horses ate only hay. The hay was a mixture of grass and alfalfa. The other horses ate five pounds of sweet grain a day in addition to the hay. Both groups ate as much hay and drank as much water as they wanted.

Each horse wore a pedometer adjusted to its stride and attached with an Ace bandage to its left front leg above the knee, Bowman said. Each horse also had a combination wristwatch-heart monitor hanging from its saddle. The watch displayed minimum, maximum and mean heart rates detected by an electrode belt.

Black trained the animals for 30 or 40 minutes a day without knowing which animal had eaten grain and which one hadn't, Bowman said. She and Black then recorded heart rates and the number of steps the horses took during training. They scored behaviors like obedience, get-up-and-go and separation anxiety.

Horses that ate both grain and hay became more upset when they were separated from the herd, Bowman said. They whinnied more and were livelier and less submissive than the horses that ate only hay.

The study doesn't mean that trainers should keep grain away from horses forever, Bowman said. They might consider withholding it just during the early weeks of training.

"We don't want to give the impression that you should starve them in order to enhance their good behavior," Bowman said. "That's not the point of it."

Wade wrote in his paper that, "Horses, being ridden by less experienced riders, need to be calm and easy to handle, characteristics that may be enhanced by more effective early training."

Bowman noted that all of the horses in MSU's study gained weight during the study. It didn't matter if they ate hay alone or hay with grain.

Contact: Evelyn Boswell
evelynb@montana.edu
406-994-5135
Montana State University

Monday, June 16, 2008

Along the same lines.....



A previous post described an innovative new Automatic Horse Feeder,
which shows promise as a method of assuring a Healthy Horse.
The following article from Horse.Com adds another slant.

Gasoline, Weather Fueling Hay Prices
Drought conditions in some major hay producing states, along with a demand for corn-based ethanol that prompted some farmers to switch crops, escalated hay prices in 2007.
This year high fuel prices will join wet weather in the Midwest, the ongoing California drought, and demand for corn to keep hay costly.
Read more: FULL STORY http://www.TheHorse.com/ViewArticle.aspx?ID=12074


It has been shown that using the Stable Grazer Automatic Feeder can save on HAY Consumption and therefor lower you costs of feeding...

Giving more cash to Enjoy your Horse on the Trail or at the Show ring.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

More Horse Care Products from Western States Horse Expo



Another Great product found at the Western States Horse Expo, June, 2008. This Horse Arena Groomer is affordable and will assure Safe Footing for your Horse. Available in different sizes.

Cal me for more information. 530-798-0245

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Western States Horse Expo 2008 and Exciting new Products

Another Great Weekend, 10th anniversary of the Western States Horse Expo, Sacramento, Ca, June 6-8, 2008.

Well, the 2008 Western States Horse Expo is over and I came back with some great information on some unique and valuable Horse Care Products.


Two products that captivated my attention were based on Old Knowledge combined with new Technology.


The first has to do with Horse Nutrition and the proper care and feeding of the confined horse.

The following re-print will give you a clear understanding why this Innovative Product form Stable Grazer fits a real Niche in the tools need for the responsible, overall low cost maintenance of our Equine Friends.



Reprinted by permission from the University of Kentucky - College of Agriculture ASC-143 Equine Feeding


Management: The How & When of Feeding Horses
Laurie Lawrence,
Department of Animal Sciences

Providing horses with good nutrition is essential for normal growth, reproduction and performance. Horses should receive feeds that are adequate but not excessive in required nutrients.


However, just providing the right feeds is often not enough to ensure that horses are receiving optimal nutrition. HOW and WHEN a horse is fed may be just as important as what a horse is fed.


The HOW of horse feeding includes the type of feeding system used (group or individual).


The WHEN of horse feeding includes the number and timing of meals that a horse receives. Good feeding management should encourage adequate consumption of feed and limit wastage.


In addition, good feeding management should promote the safety and well being of horses.Number & Timing of MealsIn the natural state, horses are grazing animals that may spend up to 60% of their time eating. Grazing and resting periods are interspersed so that grazing periods are rarely separated by more than two or three hours of non-eating behaviors. When domestic horses are kept in a true pasture situation, most will adopt the grazing pattern described for horses in the natural state.


However, many horses have limited access to pasture and will receive their nutrient needs from hay and concentrates in a more regimented environment. In pasture situations, horses may spend 12-14 hours a day grazing. By comparison, stalled horses may consume a typical hay and concentrate ration in two to four hours.


When the diets fed to stalled horses are high in roughage, more time will be spent eating than when the diet is high in concentrates. Because horses in stalls often spend less time eating than horses in pastures, they may be more inclined to occupy their time with undesirable activities such as stall vices, or wood chewing. Wood chewing appears to occur more at night in stabled horses and is increased when low roughage rations are fed. Horses have evolved to consume small amounts of feed several times a day, rather than large amounts of feed once or twice a day.


Anatomically, their digestive tract is designed to accommodate small meals, in that the stomach is relatively small. Despite the fact that the horse is more physiologically adapted to many small meals each day, it is not uncommon for feed to be provided only two (or occasionally three) times a day for many horses that are housed in stalls. This feeding practice may be labor efficient, but it may not be the most desirable situation for the horse, particularly if large amounts of concentrate are being fed.


The following situations may result when horses are fed two times per day: When a large amount of concentrate is fed before the roughage component of the diet, the horse may consume the grain readily and then have a reduced appetite for the hay. The horse may "pick at the hay or waste the hay by mixing it in the bedding.


In either case, the horse will not be consuming the nutrients that are contained in the hay. A high and rapid concentrate intake may increase the possibility of digestive disturbances. "Concentrates are feeds such as cereal grains (oats, corn, barley, etc.) and commercially mixed feeds that are concentrated forms of energy. Concentrates are high in starch. It has been estimated that the maximum amount of starch that should be fed in one meal to a mature horse is 3.5 to 4 lb (1000 lb horse). When higher levels are fed, starch may bypass the small intestine and enter the large intestine where it will be fermented by the microbes in the cecum and large intestine. Excessive concentrate intake has been suggested as a causative factor in the occurrence of colic in horses.


A large concentrate meal has also been associated with large shifts in plasma volume and changes in other cardiovascular parameters. Individual FeedingA distinct advantage to individual feeding systems is that every horse can receive a ration that has been specifically designed to meet its needs. There is maximum flexibility in the amount and types of feeds that can be given to each horse.


It is also easy to monitor each horse?s appetite and feeding behavior when they are individually fed. Generally, individual feeding also reduces the opportunity for injury due to competition for feed within a group. On the negative side, it is more time- and labor-consuming to feed horses individually than to feed them as a group. Further, individual feeding systems usually require some type of facility where horses can be separated, usually a barn with stalls. The horses may be housed in the stall more or less continuously, or just brought into the stall at feeding time. It is not uncommon for horses that are fed in stalls to develop undesirable behaviors at feeding time.



  • For example, horses may kick at partitions, walk the stall or strike at the door in anticipation of feeding. Some of the disadvantages associated with individual feeding can be minimized with good barn and stall design.

  • For example, the time and labor associated with feeding can be reduced if all feeders are placed at the front of the stalls in a location that can be reached without entering the stall.

  • For example, small doors that swing out into the aisle way can be placed above the grain tub. Swing-out hay feeders are also available. Some people believe that feeding hay from the floor is the most natural situation for horses and that hay racks or hay nets increase the exposure of the horses to dust from the hay.


In addition, some horses will remove the hay from hayracks and eat it off the floor. However, hayracks/nets will often decrease wastage of the hay. The stall design and feeder location may also affect the behavior of horses at feeding. Placing feeders on either side of stall partitions is a labor-efficient design, but it may increase undesirable behavior at feeding, such as kicking. Stall partitions should be high enough to prevent aggressive horses from reaching into adjoining stalls. Some horses do not adapt easily to separation and/or isolation from other horses.



Stalls that allow for visual contact across a stable aisle may improve the response to individual feeding. For horses with poor appetites, visual contact with other horses may stimulate eating activity.


Because of the above research, Dan Ferhinger and his brother Ed, have perfected an Automatic Feeder, which allows your confined horse to fed properly. up to six times a day. The Stable Grazer is constructed of Horse safe High density Plastic and functuional working components.


The timer is powered by 4 C cell batteries which ave ben field tested to operate for 8 months plus without replacment. This timed feeding sysytem will save on Feed waste and possible Veterinarian bills for thar dreraded "Colic Call"


For more information fill in your name, e-mail and phone number and Dan or Ed will get right back to you to discuss this Labor and Health Saving stable necessity


or call me direct
530-798-0245
Watch the Video Below


Monday, April 21, 2008

Is Training a Horse like Raising Children?

Good thoughts about the reward system for getting your
horse to be where You want them to be during the training Process.
We appreciate Equisearch for another fine Article.

Read carefully and take to heart

Rewards that Make Sense to Your Horse
Hilda Gurney shares insight on rewards and communicating clearly with your horse.

I wish I'd known how important the reward is. Unlike punishment, the reward
explains to the horse what to do and ensures that he stays content and
cooperative throughout the levels. Rewards come in all forms--
a pat on the neck or using the voice to say, "Good boy."
A reward can be riding straight and forward after a lateral exercise
or letting the horse stretch. The ceasing of an aid, such as a yielding rein
or a neutral leg, can also be a reward. For example, if the horse is alert
and going forward, he will be rewarded when the rider lightens her leg
at the very moment he starts to go nicely. Then the horse will learn that
when he feels the pressure of the leg and goes forward, he gets the
reward immediately.

Punishment does not tell a horse what to do. It extinguishes a certain
misconduct or behavior. For example, it tells the horse that he can't buck, rear or bite.
But it does not explain how to use his body to go more balanced.
For example, you see a lot of riders punishing their horses for hanging on the left rein.
But they don't tell the horse in a constructive way what to do, such as showing
him that he should soften to the contact or accept the right rein, something
the horse will only understand through a reward.


Another way I can reward my horse when first teaching a movement is to
only do a step or two and not maintain it. If I want to teach my horse to move
sideways from my right leg, for example, and he responds to my leg by moving
his haunches left and moving a step to the left, I reward him right away by ceasing my leg aid, petting him and riding straight and forward. Then you do the same thing again.
Step-by-step rewarding will ensure that you create a solid understanding of the
aids on which you can build. If you insist that your horse continue to do more
steps at a time or try to maintain the movement, he will get confused.
It will not be clear to him what you want.

Once you get a solid, immediate response to your aid, you can delay the reward
and ask for a few more steps. After those additional good steps, in which you
have lessened the pressure of the leg, you may reward him by going straight.
If you insist without making sure the horse really understands what you want,
he will become cranky and unresponsive. Sometimes you can see this at shows:
The horse has spur marks in his sides, the rider is pushing and pushing,
and the horse is swishing his tail and is tense in his back and unwilling to go forward.
The horse and rider are not speaking the same language.

Blind repetition acts like punishment and makes a horse dull. It does not make the horse understand the exercise better. Also, muscles get tired. If the horse does
something well, I may do it once again but then I go on to something else.

The principle of rewarding after a good response is just as important
when you ride at the highest level, where the demands on the horse reach
the limits of his physical ability. If the horse is trained by punishment,
drill or repetition,
he'll soon learn to hate his job, and you'll have a horse that's not going to work for you. The overall picture won't be harmonious. On the other hand, if you consistently reward,
the horse will stay positive. Look at [Olympic bronze medalist] Debbie McDonald
and Brentina. The fact that the horse is doing the most difficult and strenuous
exercises so willingly means that there's a lot of good rewarding work done.

An FEI "I" judge, Hilda Gurney is a pioneer of American dressage. With her Thoroughbred, Keen, she led the United States to the team bronze medal in dressage at the 1976 Olympic Games--the first U.S. dressage medal since 1948. She has competed twice in the Olympics and has won three gold and two silver medals at the Pan American Games. She trains and breeds horses at Keenridge Farm, Calif.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008


Thoughts on Transitioning Your Horse to Spring Pasture


When introducing a new type of hay or grain it should replace the old feed at a rate of 25% every other day, taking a total of six days until the horse is completely on the new feed.

Feed intake or eagerness to consume the diet may decrease during this changeover period. If this occurs, more time might be needed for the horse to adjust to the new feed.

"When a horse is to be turned out on pasture all day, especially if the pasture is lush and green, time on pasture should be gradually increased to avoid overeating, in a manner similar to increasing the grain," Jones said.

Horses should be provided with all the hay they want to eat about a week prior to the start of complete pasture turnout.

The time on pasture should be increased by an hour each day for four to five days. Then, before the horse is going to be turned out completely on pasture, provide a hay meal.

"It's important to remember that each horse is different," Jones noted. Some horses take more time to adjust to dietary changes than others. So monitor the horse's eating habits and health status closely during this time.

For more information on horses, contact your county extension agent or visit www.uaex.edu and select Agriculture, then Horses.

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Your Horse's Weight Control is as Important as Your own

Just as your personal Weight management is important to your overall health, your Horse's weight management becomes your responsibility since we have assume Care Control and custody of a "wild animal"

We appreciate the well written article below by Tane Moores


Also here is a Book you may enjoy for yourself, a Common Sense Approach to Weight Management.

Click here for you FREE COPY



Your horse's health is your responsibility. No if's, no but's, it is completely and entirely down to you to ensure that your horse is well. There are many factors that you have to be aware of when you care for any animal. Generally speaking, animal behavior and development should always conform to a certain course and your horse is no different.

As a horse owner you have to be confident that you are checking for the right things and taking action to rectify problems that may go wrong before they become an issue. You must make sure that you are doing whatever is necessary to ensure that your horse is growing healthily, and being brought on in a way that gives him everything he needs to develop into the best horse he can be. You have to pay close attention to your horse as he develops There are many things that can go wrong and he can't tell you. You need to know him well enough to spot them. If you haven't owned a horse before, you should get some suitable books and read up on them, then spend some time at your local stables talking to the people who care for the horses, rather than just going for a ride, talk to other horse owners and to your vet. Find out what you need to look for, make yourself familiar with the common problems. If you don't know what to watch for, you might not be able to recognize the symptoms.



Your horse's weight is always a good indicator of how healthy he is. There are many different breeds of horse, and they differ in size within the breed, but when you own a horse, you should find out from your vet some idea of the ideal weight, If you suspect your horse may have a problem, check his weight. Even if you don't have any concerns it does no harm to weigh him regularly and make a note of any fluctuations. You will spot dramatic changes quite easily but a steady decline might only show up with a regular 'weigh in'. If your horse loses a lot of weight in a week or so, it is a fair indicator that something is wrong, and you must contact your Vet immediately.

With most animals, and horses are no exception, sicknesses can develop in no time, and they can become too ill to save almost before you have noticed that anything is amiss. Even a small weight change over a short period can indicate a problem before it is full blown, especially if his eating habits change. If your horse is being weighed on a regular basis, you will be able to tell if there's a problem relatively quickly. If you can weigh your horse on a regular basis, you are going to have a very much better chance of spotting anything that goes wrong which, in an extreme case, could save your horse's life. Most good stables have a scale, if you stable your horse at home speak to the owners of the local stables and arrange to use theirs. Failing that you can always use a public scale, it's not ideal but it's better than nothing.

This is a very simple precaution but it will contribute to the well being of your horse with little effort on your part, and you should have many happy years of riding out together.

Tane Moores has been riding since a very early age and has long been involved in all things Equestrian. The experience and knowledge gained over many years of involvement in the world of horses is freely shared with anyone who cares to read. Tane writes regularly on Horse Facts and Equestrian Sports at The Easy Equestrian

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tane_Moores

Monday, February 11, 2008

Is Barefoot Better?
A growing contingent of hoof-care experts says yes. Here's what the natural-foot movement could mean for your horse. From Equus Magazine February 11, 2008

By Jennifer Forsberg Meyer

The barefoot option. You've heard of it, but you know it's not for your horse, because (pick one or more):

* it's a fad.
* he has bad feet.
* you ride on rugged ground.
* you show.

You agree that going barefoot is healthy for a hoof, and that pulling a horse's shoes at least once a year to reestablish natural hoof growth is a good thing. But eventually those shoes must go back on, right? Permanent barefootedness is appropriate only for certain horses who already have tough, resilient hooves.

Right?

Four months ago, I'd have agreed with you on all of the above. But now I'm not so sure. By researching this article, I've learned amazing things about how a horse's hoof is designed to function. As a result, I'm beginning to understand why a growing number of natural hoof-care experts say barefoot is not just for horses with already-excellent hooves.

In fact, judging by the evidence, the opposite may be true. Going barefoot (as the result of a correct trim and combined with compatible living conditions) may be the way to make bad hooves better, and even excellent. It may also create hooves capable of supporting a horse--with rider--over most types of terrain. And (this is the most intriguing part) it may enhance a horse's overall health, comfort, and longevity.

What I learned, in fact, prompted me to consider the barefoot lifestyle for my own horses, who live and are sometimes ridden on hard, rocky ground.

In this article, I'll explain what I found so compelling. I'll tell how the barefoot movement began, share the thinking of some of its most prominent advocates, and detail what's necessary to make the barefoot option work. I'll also discuss an alternative approach that applies natural-foot principles to a nontraditional shoe.

In short, I'll give you the tools you need to decide if new-age foot care is something you want to pursue for your own horse.
Before: Hoof of an off-the-track Thoroughbred before his first natural-foot trim. "This is the 'hopelessly flatfooted' horse people think we've 'bred the foot off of,'" says hoof rehab specialist Pete Ramey. "The apex of the frog is the lowest part of the foot, and the horse was lame even in shoes."

All photos by Darrell Dodds

As Nature Intended
The foundation for a natural approach to hoof care was laid 20 years ago primarily by the work of two farriers. Jaime Jackson and Gene Ovnicek independently conducted field research among feral mustangs in the mid-1980s. Each hoped to see what the hooves and habits of horses in the wild might tell us about foot care for the domestic horse.

Both were astonished at the hardiness and resilience of the feet they saw. Without metal shoes to restrict elasticity and contact with the ground, the mustangs' feet remained tough and healthy even traveling at speed over the roughest ground. Lameness was rare, and usually accident-related rather than caused by disease of the hoof itself.

The mustangs' feet were heavily callused across the toe. Ovnicek's research showed that, contrary to popular belief, the hoof wall is not the primary weight-bearing surface. Rather, the load is shared among the sole, bars, frog, and wall.
After: The same foot four months later after "barefoot" trimming and work in a padded boot to stimulate growth. "Now the apex of the frog is buried within a concave, callused sole, and the horse is sound," says Ramey.

"Intuitively, it always seemed to make sense that the hoof wall is the weight-bearer,"says Ovnicek today."And that belief kept us stuck in old modes of shoeing."

In the 20 years since the first feral-horse research, interest in natural methods of increasing the hoof health of domestic horses has blossomed around the world. Jackson has gone on to write several books related to the topic. He also helped create the American Association of Natural Hoof Care Practitioners, which promotes research and trains/certifies professionals.

Ovnicek, who still supports the ideal of "barefoot where possible,"has gone on to develop an innovative shoe that takes the natural functioning of the equine foot into account. He also lectures and provides clinics around the world on what he calls the "natural balance" of the equine foot.

Veterinarians, research centers, and universities are increasingly taking notice of the natural hoof 's powers to prevent and in many cases cure diseases like laminitis and navicular. Moreover, word of mouth among horse owners is building demand for more information on natural hoof care and access to practitioners.

Just before I began work on this article, I heard an enthusiastic endorsement of the barefoot trim from my neighbor, who's pleased with the results she's getting with her laminitic gelding. That caused me to wonder: Just how does it all work?

The Underlying Science
Robert Bowker, VMD, PhD is a leading researcher in the natural function of the equine foot. A neurobiologist who teaches anatomy at Michigan State University, he became interested in foot function about 10 or 12 years ago, when students asked him about the correct placement of nerve blocks. The anatomy texts he check were incorrect, so he began examining the equine foor himself.

His research extended from the nerves of the foot to the blood vessels, cartilage, and bones, and more recently to the hooves and their laminae in health and disease.He supplemented his lab work with observations of free-roaming feral horses.

What he found added momentum to the barefoot movement. He discovered that the blood in horses' feet does much more than provide nutrients to hoof tissues. it also enables the unshod foot to function as a hydraulic system, in much the same way that gel-filled athletic shoes do.

"Moving liquids are the best way to dissipate energy," Bowker said in 1999,when his research was first publicized."That's why some of the major running shoe manufacturers market products that contain liquids in their soles."

Bowker also discovered, however, that the blood isn't forced out of the foot upon impact, with the digital cushion-the thick pad of elastic fiber at the heel-absorbing most of the concussion, as was previously thought. Rather, as the hoof expands upon landing, it creates a vacuum that sucks blood from beneath the coffin bone into the rear portion of the hoof.

"As the blood moves through microvessels in the hoof cartilage, it dissipates the energy caused by the impact on the ground," he explained at the time. "We need to be trimming hooves so that more of the back part of the foot--including the frog--bears the initial ground impact forces and weight."

The problem, of course, is that traditional metal shoes not only limit the expansion and the contraction of the hoof, they also raise the frog and heel off the ground. Bowker says today that the difference between wearing shoes and going barefoot is like the difference between working in high heels and wearing sneakers.

The problem, of course, is that traditional metal shoes not only limit the expansion and contraction of the hoof, they also raise the frog and heel off the ground. Bowker says today that the difference between wearing shoes and going barefoot is like the difference between working in high heels and wearing sneakers.
Before: Hoof of a Quarter Horse whose rotated coffin bone had
penetrated the soles of both feet in 2004.
"The farrier and vet both told the owner this horse was unsalvageable,"
says Ramey, who began caring for the gelding's feet.

After: The same horse today, after regular "barefoot" trimming.
"This horse carried his owner to a speed-event championship buckle
in local competition in 2005," says Ramey





"Horseshoes provide a much smaller surface area to absorb shock," explains the researcher, whose own wife's horse is now happily barefoot. "So if a bare hoof landing after a jump experiences, say, 1,000 pounds of loading per square foot, then with a traditional shoe, there's going to be 2,000 pounds per square foot."

The consequences of this are significant. With their natural function compromised, key hoof structures become weak through lack of use, thus more vulnerable to navicular syndrome and other lamenesses. And, with the shock-absorbing ability of the foot limited, the concussion travels up the horse's leg, stressing bones and joints.

It's this latter phenomenon of how the wearing of shoes affects the rest of the horse's body that initially grabbed the attention of yet another barefoot advocate, farrier Pete Ramey.

Now an instructor and clinician for the AANHCP and one of the world's most experienced natural hoof-care practitioners, Ramey first learned about the potential advantages of barefootedness in 1998. Intrigued, he pulled the shoes from his own string of about 20 rental horses and was "blown away" by what he saw.

"These were geriatric geldings, many over 30, averaging 20 miles a day over rocks," he recalls. "Once their feet made the transition, they functioned beautifully over that terrain. But what really got me was how the geldings' endurance increased, and their creaks and groans diminished. I began to have fewer of them on the injured reserve list."
After: The same horse today, after regular "barefoot" trimming. "This horse carried his owner to a speed-event championship buckle in local competition in 2005," says Ramey.

Ramey points to the findings of Bowker's research to explain what was happening.

"Because the bare foot is such an effective blood pump, the horse's heart doesn't have to work as hard. Endurance riders have known this for a while--it's why many of them use boots instead of shoes: Their horses recover faster."

Then, too, there's that superior cushioning of the bare foot, which spares a horse's joints, ligaments, and other tissues.

"It's like the difference between a steel wheel and a rubber tire," he notes. "People assume it's normal for horses to have joint or back problems as they age, but it may be many of these aches are caused by the increased stresses of wearing shoes."

Ramey strongly disagrees with those who say shoes are necessary because we've "bred the foot off " the modern horse.

"It's just not true. Unless there's a bone pathology, virtually any horse can grow a healthy foot, given time and proper trimming."

Although the exact specifications of that trim are still evolving, most natural-foot practitioners agree that the result should enable the sole, the bars, the frog, and the walls to share the load. Only exfoliating material should be trimmed from the sole and frog, allowing thick calluses to develop over these structures. The outer hoof wall is best beveled to minimize flaring and separation. Sometimes called a "mustang roll," this beveling mimics the wear pattern on feral horses' feet. (Note: The experts I spoke with for this article agreed that the Strasser trim, developed by German veterinarian Hiltrud Strasser, is invasive and should be avoided.)

To ease the transition from shod to barefoot, Ramey and other practitioners recommend hoof boots, often helping their clients select and fit them. Because of the increasing demand for boots from owners of barefoot horses, a wealth of styles and models is now appearing on the market.

"Boots provide protection while a horse's hoof is remodeling and becoming tougher," says Ramey. "They're the 21st century shoe, protecting a foot as well as the 'old school' metal shoe, only supporting hoof health rather than degrading it. Over time, as the feet develop their natural resilience, the boots are no longer necessary for most riding."

Natural Foot, Natural Horse
Most natural hoof care practitioners agree that a barefoot trim works best on a horse living a more natural lifestyle, including as much turnout as feasible. Ideally, the horse should live on the same type of ground he'll be ridden on. For example, if you ordinarily ride a lot on rough trails, your barefoot horse is best turned out on terrain that includes rocks and hard footing.

"It's something the AANHCP and the barefoot movement in general are working towards now," says Mark Jeldness, a field instructor for the association."We want to help owners find ways to create the right kind of environment for their horses, and to encourage their horses to move around on it as much as possible."

For owners who can't provide enough turnout, keeping the horse well exercised under saddle during the transition period is critical. Boots make this possible, as well as frequent trims (every four to six weeks) that encourage the foot to remodel properly.


In that this approach to foot care fits within the natural-isbetter movement at large, it's not surprising that natural horsemanship clinicians are embracing the no-shoes option more readily than are mainstream trainers. John Lyons hasn't shod his horses in 10 years, but he believes owners must use common sense when considering what to do with their own horses.

"You don't need shoes just because you ride a horse, and leaving shoes off is ideal for forming a healthier, stronger foot," he maintains. "I put gravel in my pastures where the horses walk to help toughen their feet. But you have to use common sense, too. If I were roping all the time in a sand arena, I'd probably use shoes."

Clinton Anderson quit using traditional shoeing a year and a half ago, and now puts hind shoes only on his reiners. "You do need the shoes in back to be able to slide," he says. "But other than that, with the right trimming, there's no reason to shoe. The feet don't change overnight--I've found it takes anywhere from six months to a year for them to fully make the transition--but when they do, they get hard and strong and tough enough for most any kind of riding."

Of course, not everyone agrees this is so, and there are any number of traditional farriers and longtime horsemen who'll tell you the "barefoot thing" is misguided, plain and simple. But one undeniable strength of the natural hoof care movement is its emphasis on maximizing the health potential of every foot.

"The key difference between traditional farrier care and the barefoot approach is that we're zoomed in on figuring out how to make all horses grow good feet," says Ramey. "A vet I work with told me recently he used to look at a horse with bad hooves and say, 'Wow--that horse has awful feet.' Now he says, 'Wow--that horse could have good feet if we do this and this and this.' It's a significant difference."

For my part, I'm impressed enough with the underlying science and the case histories to give barefoot a try. My horses received a natural trim from an AANHCP-certified practitioner last December, and are spending several months turned out in an area with varied terrain. When my daughter and I resume riding, we'll use boots if necessary until their feet are sufficiently remodeled.

At the end of the transition period, the worst-case scenario is that our horses will have much healthier hooves on which to nail shoes. And if they wind up happy without their shoes, even better.

This article first appeared in the February 2006 version of Horse & Rider magazine. For more information on going shoeless check out an interview with Pete Ramey in the December 2007 issue.